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When compiling a ranking of London’s top eateries, one might expect renowned high-end names. But, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Unexpected Honour

This little Turkish spot, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The accolade has left the proprietors completely surprised.

“I’m completely surprised,” says the family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that culminated in their small shop securing such a lofty spot on a respected 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a sought-after spot, has retained much of its former character. It seats just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the setup remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it’s all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are added in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the savoury meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some pickles. The final product is a mighty burst of taste, with soft hints of sumac, punchy onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a deeper, toastier and less sickly profile.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has ranked above several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself just behind the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for below £25, equivalent tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I do not believe in that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he was in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to teach them the dangers of excess, and to show what is achievable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Hard Work

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at fancy establishments. “I feel really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she had a social life but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the Community

The restaurant’s success is likely to resonate beyond its own walls. “In my opinion numerous people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader meaning of this gastronomic triumph.